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After a deep night of sleep, I made my way to the lobby of the Regency Hotel in Shreveport this morning looking for some coffee. For the third time since I arrived at this old hotel, I felt a cool chill blow across my neck — where there was no wind. I’m not into anything even slightly esoteric. I don’t believe in ghosts, karma, reincarnation, or haunted hotels. Except, perhaps, this one.
The Regency is in a state of flux. Parts of it are old and dilapidated — like the row of broken phones that adorn a lobby wall — while other parts, like my room, have been renovated. It’s a clean and friendly place, but spooky. I like it just for that reason. It’s the kind of place that stokes my imagination.
I wrote like a woman possessed yesterday. I ignored the desk in my room, piled the pillows behind me on the bed, and entered into a day-long dream with my Mac (which I am still thankful for every day). The highway outside rumbled with traffic and construction. My suitcase, cameras, and a dozen cords were spilled out beside me. I wrote about love, old ghosts, color, and curiosity.
After I exorcised my demons, I went to the Naked Bean coffee house in the Highland district to listen to some music and get a dose of caffeine. There are not many coffee shops in Shreveport — and only a stingy sprinkling of Starbucks — so the Naked Bean is a popular place. A group of young men played hacky-sack outside, a pink haired girl sat near the entryway, and an old poet mingled with a crowd ranging in age from about 16-70.
The owner, Pam Hairston (seen on the right in photo, talking with a customer), is a self-taught musician and former nurse who started the Naked Bean because she wanted to do something progressive in Shreveport.
When I asked Pam about local politics, including the Red River Tea Party group that operates across the street, she was quick to tell me that she’s not political. She focuses, instead, on bringing music and a fun meeting place to the community. People have met and fallen in love at the Naked Bean. Locally famous musicians like Brian Blade have played the small stage. Those are the things that make Pam proud of her business.
Although Shreveport is steeped in religious fundamentalism and political conservatism, none of the people I met on the street last night seemed willing to openly talk about it, including the young. I get the sense that there’s a code of politeness about ideological differences that isn’t normally crossed, and that allows liberals and conservatives to freely mix in ways that they might not if the code didn’t exist.
On my way out of the Naked Bean, Pam tells me about Cajun Daiquiris — a drive-through that sells blended drinks in three sizes of styrofoam cups. Seriously? I’ve never heard of anything like this — I think it’s probably a bad idea for alcoholics and a great idea for the rest of us. I can imagine picking up a king-sized margarita after a long day at work to enjoy at home — I just can’t imagine that everybody waits that long.
I got a margarita, and because I came by way of Pam’s recommendation, the cashier threw in one of her favorites, a strawberry daiquiri. They were strong, stiff drinks. I got through about half of the margarita before I felt an overwhelming urge to sleep. I gave the daiquiri to a young, tough-looking guy a couple of doors down. He was thrilled.
I didn’t want to leave the Regency this morning. I’m in writing mode and as much as I appreciate Belle, my Chevy Silverado, she’s not as comfortable as a bed. I’m writing this from a McDonald’s parking lot, where I got a large cup of coffee for my trip to meet my Facebook friend, Hiedi Townsley, from Cave City, Arkansas. It’s a 5.5 hour drive. My luggage is filled with laundry that needs to be done, and my head is full of plans and stories.
One of the plans comes from the advice of several readers, who suggested I post side notes like this to my blog more often. I don’t know how much general interest there is in the day-to-day part of my journey, but I’m open to trying new things. Let me know what you think. About anything. I feel angsty when people don’t talk back to me.
OnStar has set up my route; Hiedi, I’m on my way. I hope there’s coffee in Cave City — or a margarita drive-through.
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Are you not planning to visit New Orleans?
Erica M´s last blog ..read met one
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Yes, I’ll visit New Orleans, but I’m moving vertically right now because I have some biz in the Midwest in February, and New Orleans is on the other side of the state. I’m definitely visiting your Firefly guy when I get there.
I find that I enjoy the day to day stories like this along with anything else you care to post. The whole adventure parts of your Year-long Writing Adventure, including mundane details on a bank of hotel phones out of order for example, become fun footnotes.
Perhaps think of them as background details in the great tapestry you are weaving. Yes, not central to the theme elements, but essential to giving us a sense of your experience.
Bruce Nunnally´s last blog ..DeLurking Cadillac Fans
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I love this post as much as I do your others – and I want to hear more about what made your hair stand on end in that frankenstein-like hotel. This is just as interesting as your other, more analytic and crafted writings.
This makes me feel more like I am riding shotgun with you. So keep it up. Please.
More, then?
Sounds fantastic! If you are really into exploring the country and the people that you meet, your little trip this way is going to be culture shock. We are small, rural and quaint. I think you will be sirprised, though, by some of the diversity you meet in our little town an hour off the interstate.
I am looking forward to your visit!
Yes. I love it. This journal entry helps me imagine what your trip is like in a day-to-day way. Almost as if I have a load of dirty laundry in the backseat along with yours! Let’s sing ‘Paradise by the Dashboard Light’ as we drive on to your next destination!
PS- Everybody loves stories of haunted hotels!
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I like the idea of side notes on your blog, kind of a daily barometer of how Jane is doing.
Margaritas to go in Louisiana? They allow open drinks in vehicles or how are the margaritas packaged? Color me interested although I hardly drink at all, except for our lovely Michigan wines that we stock up on yearly.
Pop and Ice´s last blog ..I’m back in School?
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Oh Yes . . . Please keep writing side notes. Your personal experiences along the way are a very important part of this journey for you and for us . . . like sharing that just because you don’t believe in ghosts or haunted hotels doesn’t mean they don’t exist.
The day-to-day of your life right now is what makes it different from the lives of other bloggers on the ‘net, from other online content. The journey is important, the small details, the sense of a life lived outside the lines. The trip is what’s *distinctive,* it’s the differentiator. The road to the stories is what makes the stories more interesting and engaging to the reader on another level. The road stories have the greater potential to expand your audience.
I vote yes to daily updates when possible. What you are doing is fascination so more details please!
Sandi Keene´s last blog ..Quilt Shop Hop plus…
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I like these posts very much, Jane. Many of us will never get the opportunity, or have the drive to create the opportunity as you have, to “find our America”. Reading about what happens on your journey, as well as your creative, inspired posts, is what I thought this was all about. I like what Connie said… makes us feel like we’re “riding shotgun with you”.
Chris´s last blog ..Sun, Sun, Sun, Here It Comes…
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I really enjoy these kind of posts. It’s just another way to stay connected with you and your adventures.
Julia Janzen´s last blog ..The Wonderful Masterpiece, “Cranford”
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I agree with V-Grrrl above … your day-to-day is what makes your experience so unique. Don’t stop!
D~
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I would never have learned of the drive-thru tavern concept without having read this post. That fact alone makes me glad you opted to include this kind of story. And it also makes me want to pass through Shreveport sometime soon.
Kim Nelson´s last blog ..One Writer’s Journey
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We have drive-through beer places in Austin but you are not meant to drink them as you go. A to-go Daiquiri is interesting. Not sure I’d want to live near a place that sold those!
Jodi´s last blog ..Pancakes between cousins and friends
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I like the side notes. I haven’t been able to write so much while doing the Berlin gig but perhaps life is a little calmer in these days anyway … LOVING your adventure and stories. Travel safe.
Di´s last blog ..Fragments of an Old War
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As someone who is following in your tire tracks, heading to LA in a couple weeks, your post got me in the mood. LA is a state I had never been to before my HEAR US journey. It’s rich in character. Shrove Tuesday and the various Mardi Gras celebrations, not to mention the excitement of the Saints’ Super Bowl appearance, will get the daiquiris and other forms of imbibing flowing!
And thanks for the poverty link. I’ll use that on my next Change.org Poverty in America blog.
Safe travels and thanks for the preview!
Diane Nilan´s last blog ..LEARNING CURVE EXPRESS
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ooooh. haunted places! your descriptions are awesome. right there with ya.
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As a new reader following your sojourn, I’m working my way backwards, hit and miss style. This post caught my eye….
Road trips are definitely a passion of mine, and have driven from the Pacific Northwest to Key West and back. Several road trips have taken me through Louisiana where, as an outsider, I’ve found a wealth of riches that have nothing to do with a person’s economic status. There is such beauty – there is nothing like a backwater bayou to catch the imagination. I’ve met incredibly warm and welcoming people (although somewhat guarded). And don’t get me started on the food, which is beyond compare. But yes, I’ve driven through areas exactly where you’ve been (pre- and post-Katrina) and experienced much the same as you – that the poverty is overwhelming. But sadly, it is not unique to Louisiana, as taking the road less traveled will often reveal. Please do keep relaying your day-to-day experiences. They are the glue that binds it all together.
What I most wanted to share, though, is that my one and only “haunted” experience also was in Louisiana, while staying in a lovely hotel in the heart of the French Quarter. Phew! NOLA is an experience all of its own, and I hope you have (or had, if you’ve already been) an absolutely wonderful time – and don’t be surprised if you have yet more haunting experiences, as the atmosphere there simply shimmers with history and strange occurrences – which they play up to the ‘nth degree! Laissez les bons temps rouler!
Safe travels…